Let’s head to Orschwihr, south of Colmar, where the Zusslin family nurtures 18 hectares of vines planted to nine traditional Alsace grape varieties. Founded in 1691 by Jodocus Cisle, an ancestor of the family, the estate is now cared for by Valentin’s grandchildren, Jean-Paul and Marie Zusslin, who continue the winemaking tradition passed down through 13 generations. Since taking the reins in 2000, the winemakers have earned widespread acclaim. La Revue du Vin de France describes them as “a passionate, charismatic duo, deeply committed to a job well done,” and the estate has become a firm favourite with critics and wine guides in recent years.
Certified organic since 1997 and biodynamic since 2000, the estate draws its wines from some of Alsace’s finest terroirs: Bollenberg, Clos Liebenberg and the Pfingstberg Grand Cru. Since the 2012 vintage, the soils have been cultivated using horse plowing, and the estate has also embraced agro-viticultural forestry, installing beehives and perches to encourage biodiversity and stimulate healthy ecosystems – an approach described as “exemplary” by La Revue du Vin de France. The results speak for themselves: pure, crystalline white wines, alongside red wines with fine structure and genuine ageing potential.

Sylvaner may be one of the lesser-celebrated Alsatian grape varitieties, but this cuvée from Domaine Zusslin is a benchmark for changing lazy assumptions about this wine. Delicate, lively and eminently drinkable, it has fabulous food-pairing versatility; drink alongside oysters for pure transcendence on the palate.