It is in a far more discreet setting, compared with the Côte de Nuits that the de Villaine couple chose to establish themselves. A key ambassador for the inscription of Burgundy’s climats as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Aubert de Villaine applied here the same exacting standards as at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: biodynamic vineyard management, organic certification, natural winemaking methods and grapes harvested and sorted entirely by hand. Here, the vines, averaging 45 years old, are planted exclusively on hillside slopes between 270 and 350 metres in altitude. Lean, limestone-rich soils naturally regulate yields, while the warm microclimate of the valley encourages optimal ripening.
Since 2001, Pierre de Benoist has gradually taken over the reins of the de Villaine estate (formerly known as A & P de Villaine). Whether from Mercurey, Rully or Bouzeron, the wines now rank among the finest of the Côte Chalonnaise. Enjoyed in their youth or after a few years in bottle, the estate’s distinctive white wines – Bouzeron being the only appellation in Burgundy whose wines must be made exclusively from Aligoté – reveal bright, lively acidity and moreish charm.

This cuvée was first produced in the early 2010s, which was when Aubert de Villaine and his nephew Pierre de Benoist first started to work these ancestral premier cru vines. The grapes enjoy perfect exposure for optimum ripeness. The vines are located mid-slope on marl-limestone soils, and are cared for in accordance with biodynamic principles. The grapes are – unsurprisingly – harvested by hand, and the gentle pressing process is conducted on whole grape bunches. The wine is then matured naturally. Élevage is conducted in casks and foudre tuns. This premier cru is seductive in its complexity, its refinement and its indulgent notes of fresh and stoned fruit. On the palate, too, complexity is the watchword: taut, mineral and fresh at the same time, it reveals genuine sensuality and superb length. Although the wine can be drunk straight away, our advice would be to wait for 8-10 years. It will be perfect as an accompaniment to gourmet dishes such as fish, white meat and cheese... from Burgundy, of course!