This family domain, founded in the 19th century, is now run by Emmanuel Ogereau, the fifth generation of vintners to craft wine at the estate. But this is a history that goes “beyond them, the history of an ancient wine growing area and the birthplace of Chenin”. The vines are cultivated organically with some biodynamic methods used, putting soil life in a central place for their work. Both dry and dessert wines are made here, and whilst it’s the latter that has built the estate’s reputation in recent times, Emmanuel Ogereau’s terroir-driven, single-parcel approach is moving the spotlight back to dry wines. A Loire signature to keep an eye on.

To the south of Angers, in Val-du-Layon, is the 24-hectare Ogereau estate, which has been certified organic since 2019. Thanks to Vincent Ogereau, the estate built itself a solid reputation in the 1980s, producing wines that express their terroir with great precision. Emmanuel, representing the estate’s fifth generation, now cultivates these vines, from which Les Bonnes Blanches is made.
This wine is a 100% Chenin dry white Anjou, made from vines planted in a terroir of altered schist. This degraded schist allows the vines to root deeply and the wine to retain a great deal of freshness.
It has a delicately herbaceous nose and pastry-like toasted almond notes, with a full, powerful palate, a fresh, minty finish and a fine, assertive structure.
The grapes are harvested by hand, the yeasts are natural and the use of sulphites is kept to a minimum.
This wine, which is matured on lees in 400-litre barrels for 12 months, goes perfectly with fish, white meats and cheese.