Let’s head to Orschwihr, south of Colmar, where the Zusslin family nurtures 18 hectares of vines planted to nine traditional Alsace grape varieties. Founded in 1691 by Jodocus Cisle, an ancestor of the family, the estate is now cared for by Valentin’s grandchildren, Jean-Paul and Marie Zusslin, who continue the winemaking tradition passed down through 13 generations. Since taking the reins in 2000, the winemakers have earned widespread acclaim. La Revue du Vin de France describes them as “a passionate, charismatic duo, deeply committed to a job well done,” and the estate has become a firm favourite with critics and wine guides in recent years.
Certified organic since 1997 and biodynamic since 2000, the estate draws its wines from some of Alsace’s finest terroirs: Bollenberg, Clos Liebenberg and the Pfingstberg Grand Cru. Since the 2012 vintage, the soils have been cultivated using horse plowing, and the estate has also embraced agro-viticultural forestry, installing beehives and perches to encourage biodiversity and stimulate healthy ecosystems – an approach described as “exemplary” by La Revue du Vin de France. The results speak for themselves: pure, crystalline white wines, alongside red wines with fine structure and genuine ageing potential.

True to its reputation, the Valentin Zusslin estate has produced a first-rate Cremant, considered by some to be the best in Alsace. This success is primarily due to the rich environment where the Auxerrois and Riesling grapes are cultivated. Here, at the top of the Pfingstberg Hill, flora and fauna thrive. This rich biodiversity, flourishing more than ever thanks to the marl-gravel soils of the terroir, brings vivacity and deep structure to the harvested berries. This meticulous (biodynamic), plot-by-plot approach extends to the entire winemaking process. The juices are matured on fine lees in large barrels for a year and a half and then on laths for 76 months.
Tasting the wines reveals a remarkable cuvée, worthy of a prestigious champagne. The light yellow, almost silvery colour reveals lovely notes of yellow fruit. Flavours of citrus and ripe fruit are elegantly carried by exceptionally fine bubbles on the palate. The finish is remarkably persistent, with a subtle bitterness to round off this sensory waltz.