Arbois La Mailloche Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot 2004 (White)

The domain might still carry the name of his parents, but Stéphane Tissot (and his wife Bénédicte) took over the family business over 20 years ago. In 1995, Stéphane began to reduce the amount of fertiliser so as to pave the way for organic viticulture. Around this time he also stopped using chemical herbicides altogether. In 1999, the then 28 hectares (now 46 hectares) became entirely organic and, after a few years, the whole domain became biodynamic in 2004 (Demeter certification). Stéphane's hard work has transformed the quality of the grapes. With such good quality fruit, vinifications are relatively easy and require very little intervention. Natural yeasts are used in fermentation and a very small amount of sulphites are added, nothing else. The end result is an excellent expression of terroir with intense aromas. Stéphane's quest to convey his many different terroirs has led him to produce nearly 50 different cuvées from many different grape varieties using various vinification methods. For example, for the Savagnin, a variety typical of the Jura, the property produces wines with and without oxidation (i.e. topping up of the barrels) and vin jaune. This domain is at its zenith and is one of the Jura's (and iDealwine's) best kept secrets.

The property still bears the name of his parents, but Stéphane and his wife Bénédicte have played an active role for more than 20 years. In 1995, they started by reducing the quantities of fertilizers, gradually replacing them with organic preparations. At the same time, chemical weed control was replaced by ploughing. The property's 28 hectares were converted to organic methods in 1999 (it now has 46 hectares), and then, after a few trial years, transitioned to biodynamic farming, with Demeter certification from 2004. This evolution has resulted in a significant improvement in the quality of the grapes, notably in terms of the balance of their acidity, their ripeness and the density of the juice. With such grapes, vinification is relatively easy, requiring minimal intervention. Fermentation starts with indigenous yeasts from the various terroirs and the winery environment, and continues without any additives, apart from some small quantities of sulphur. The result is a pure, powerful expression of the terroirs bursting with extraordinarily aromatically precise fruit. This quest to express the property's various terroirs has led the Tissots to produce an increasing number of cuvées (36 currently!) from various grape varieties, categories of terroir and vinification methods (for example, for the Savagnin, a variety typical of the Jura, the property produces wines with and without oxidation (i.e. topping up of the barrels) and vin jaune). La Mailloche is one of the finest white wines produced by the property, if not in the whole of the Jura Made from very old vines (some are nearly 70 years old) planted on an unusual terroir consisting of fairly compact clay, this white wine has a very strong personality that will delight lovers of wines with a special character. Superb!

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