Let’s head to Orschwihr, south of Colmar, where the Zusslin family nurtures 18 hectares of vines planted to nine traditional Alsace grape varieties. Founded in 1691 by Jodocus Cisle, an ancestor of the family, the estate is now cared for by Valentin’s grandchildren, Jean-Paul and Marie Zusslin, who continue the winemaking tradition passed down through 13 generations. Since taking the reins in 2000, the winemakers have earned widespread acclaim. La Revue du Vin de France describes them as “a passionate, charismatic duo, deeply committed to a job well done,” and the estate has become a firm favourite with critics and wine guides in recent years.
Certified organic since 1997 and biodynamic since 2000, the estate draws its wines from some of Alsace’s finest terroirs: Bollenberg, Clos Liebenberg and the Pfingstberg Grand Cru. Since the 2012 vintage, the soils have been cultivated using horse plowing, and the estate has also embraced agro-viticultural forestry, installing beehives and perches to encourage biodiversity and stimulate healthy ecosystems – an approach described as “exemplary” by La Revue du Vin de France. The results speak for themselves: pure, crystalline white wines, alongside red wines with fine structure and genuine ageing potential.

The lesser celebrated Sylvaner variety produces some unsung gems of the wine world, best enjoyed as an aperitif or with refined dishes. Domaine Valentin Zusslin has a delicious signature Sylvaner, capable of cellaring for a good 10 years. It abounds with exotic, spiced notes evoking fruit brioche, enhanced by a fine minerality. This cuvée is the result of scrupulous biodynamic winemaking, both in the vineyard and the cellar. Vines reap the benefits of the clay and sandstone soil and the ideal south-east facing aspect which enjoys great sun exposure particularly in the morning and winter. The winemaking takes places in vats, without additions, transferred to oak barrels for maturation.