Rioja Vina Pomal Reserva Bodegas Bilbainas 2010

The story of Bodegas Bilbaínas is a textbook illustration of the influence of Bordeaux in Spain. The history of these cellars, which are over a hundred years old, dates back to 1859, when the Bordeaux company Sauvignon Frère et Cie established itself in Rioja Alta. They produced a wine called Vina Pomal, which was one of the first Spanish wines to be sold abroad in the early twentieth century. Bodegas Bilbaínas is situated to the north of Logroño and mainly cultivates Tempranillo, Grenache, Mazuelo and Graciano, as well as white grape varieties such as Viura and Malvasia. Today, the business is owned by the Grupo Codorníu and markets twenty or so cuvées in a variety of styles (reds, rosés, whites, and cava).

Viña Pomal Reserva is a classic Rioja that was first made in 1908. This Tempranillo varietal is produced from an impoverished terroir of slate and gravel. Low winter rainfall levels place the vines under considerable water stress. The berries are macerated for a long time after they have been de-stemmed and pressed. The wine is matured in American oak barrels for 18 months and then left to rest in the bottle for two years. This very fine wine has plenty of character and strikes a perfect balance between concentration and acidity.