This family domain, founded in the 19th century, is now run by Emmanuel Ogereau, the fifth generation of vintners to craft wine at the estate. But this is a history that goes “beyond them, the history of an ancient wine growing area and the birthplace of Chenin”. The vines are cultivated organically with some biodynamic methods used, putting soil life in a central place for their work. Both dry and dessert wines are made here, and whilst it’s the latter that has built the estate’s reputation in recent times, Emmanuel Ogereau’s terroir-driven, single-parcel approach is moving the spotlight back to dry wines. A Loire signature to keep an eye on.