Let’s head to Orschwihr, south of Colmar, where the Zusslin family nurtures 18 hectares of vines planted to nine traditional Alsace grape varieties. Founded in 1691 by Jodocus Cisle, an ancestor of the family, the estate is now cared for by Valentin’s grandchildren, Jean-Paul and Marie Zusslin, who continue the winemaking tradition passed down through 13 generations. Since taking the reins in 2000, the winemakers have earned widespread acclaim. La Revue du Vin de France describes them as “a passionate, charismatic duo, deeply committed to a job well done,” and the estate has become a firm favourite with critics and wine guides in recent years.
Certified organic since 1997 and biodynamic since 2000, the estate draws its wines from some of Alsace’s finest terroirs: Bollenberg, Clos Liebenberg and the Pfingstberg Grand Cru. Since the 2012 vintage, the soils have been cultivated using horse plowing, and the estate has also embraced agro-viticultural forestry, installing beehives and perches to encourage biodiversity and stimulate healthy ecosystems – an approach described as “exemplary” by La Revue du Vin de France. The results speak for themselves: pure, crystalline white wines, alongside red wines with fine structure and genuine ageing potential.

This single-variety Riesling is a high-end cuvée produced from old vines which are cultivated on a sliver of schist in Mittelwihr. The southern-facing vines are tucked between Colmar and Riquewihr. The clay-limestone soil is rich in ferrous minerals such as hematite and other secondary minerals. The harvest takes place by hand, and the grapes are sorted twice – once in the vineyard and again at the winery – before they are pressed whole using a pneumatic press to ensure a superior quality wine. The wine spends more than two years maturing in vats on fine lees with a hint of native sulphur for stability and optimal aromatic precision.
This Riesling, whose flavours intensify with age, offers aromas of pineapple, preserved yellow fruit and golden kiwis, enhanced by warm aromas of beeswax. The creamy, slightly acidic, palate is reminiscent of a lemon tart, balanced by a very delicate crispness and a slightly salty finish. When this cuvée is decanted, it will reveal its long-lasting yet delicate mineral quality.
This wine pairs perfectly with chicken tajine with preserved lemons.